Totes crack in the middle because of excess pressure the user puts on the back of the plane. When a plane's blade is dull and not properly sharpened, more force is needed to make a cut. This extra force puts added stress on the tote and often it will crack in the middle or near the bottom. Fortunately repairing the tote is not all that difficult.

The first thing you need to do is take the two sections of the tote and clean whatever glue residue is left on it from the previous owner trying to fix the tote. The two pieces of this tote here were held wrapped together with electrical tape when I bought the plane.

Next you need to find a scrap piece of rosewood that you can use as a filler. Take each piece of the tote over to a disk sander and sand away the broken fibers so that you have a clean and smooth surface in which  to glue the filler strip to. Now glue the tote back together with the filler strip in the middle using polyurethane glue.

After the glue is dried, file the filler strip so that it matches the profile of the rest of the tote. Take a 1/4" drill bit and re-drill the hole through the filler strip for the tote screw and brass nut to slide down. Then sand with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of shellac to finish the tote.

 Tote is repaired and ready for another hundred years of use.

I bought an old No 7 off Ebay for about $30.00 a few weeks ago. While the plane was in good condition, most of the japanning had flaked off. I really didn't want to keep the plane looking like that so I decided to re-japan it. The first I did was to take the bed and scrape away as much of the original paint as possible with dental picks. In order to have a nice finish with japan paint, you need to have the surface as clean as possible.  

Next I take advantage of the summer months and place the bed and frog in the sun to bake for a few hours. Back in the day, old black japan paint was baked on in an oven to seal the surface. There's no way I'm sticking tools in my wife's oven so I let mother nature heat the tool up for me.

I buy Pontypool black japan asphaltum paint from a company called Liberty of the Hudson and use artist brushes to apply a very thin coat on the bed. Apply the paint as thin as possible and don't try to use glue brushes as their bristles are too thick. If you do, you'll have thick brush strokes all over the plane's surface and it'll look terrible. I apply four coats while the bed is in the sun, waiting about two hours between coats. The japan paint will go on really oily and it will look strange, but it levels out as it dries. It's important not to apply the paint too thick. Four thin coats is much better than two thick ones.

If you plan on re-japanning a plane bed, re-japan the frog as well so that the colors match.

After the paint dries I let it sit for two weeks to cure. Not two hours, or two days..... two weeks. You have to make sure that the japanning is completely cured before you attempt to finalize it, otherwise you will rub off the paint. Once the paint is cured, I rub 0000 steel wool on the body to knock off the glossy sheen. I also rub off some of the paint from the high spots of the bed like the plane number and patent dates. It just makes the tool look more authentic. Then I use a product called Kramers Antique Improver and wipe it all over the plane to bring out a satin shine and protect it from rust.

You may ask, why not just use engine enamel spray paint? Well I have seen tools that have repainted but they never look like real japanning. Japanning gives you the texture of a thick coating that can not be duplicated by simply grabbing a can of Krylon and spraying it with several coats of spray paint.

When the plane is done it looks fantastic. So much so that some people may never be able to tell that the tools has been re-japanned. That's where it gets hairy. If you re-japan a tool and plan on selling it, you need to disclose the fact that the tool has been enhanced, otherwise that's a form of fraud. The value of an old tool often depends on how much of the original japanning remains and some tool collectors will pay big bucks for tools that are in mint condition. So bare in mind, it's your tool, do with what you want with it, but if your knowingly misrepresent the conditions of the tools you sell, then you will be considered a fraud. 

Every time I see an article in a woodworking magazine about restoring an old plane, it's usually a Stanley No 4 smooth plane. While a smooth plane is probably one of the most important planes to own, it certainly shouldn't be the only plane you have in your arsenal of tools. A jointer plane is extremely handy for jointing the edges of boards straight as well as leveling the tops of wide panels flat. In fact I probably use my jointer just as much as I use a smoother.  So I decided to write a blog and show how easy it is to refurbish an old jointer and put it back to use.

The first thing I do when cleaning a plane is take it completely apart. Remove every single bolt and screw you can and lay them on the bench so you won't lose them. Don't worry about not knowing where each screw will go as the guts of a plane are quite simple and easy to put back together.

Next you need to get yourself a product called Evap-O-Rust. I buy it in a five gallon bucket as I clean a lot of tools but a couple of gallons at your local auto parts store should do you just fine. Fill a container with the Evap-O-Rust and submerge the parts in so that they are completely covered in the solution. If you don't have the part completely covered, you will end up with an oxidized line on the part where the air and the solution meet. It's also important to make sure that the parts of the plane are not lying on top of one another in the solution. You want to make sure that the Evap-O-Rust has the ability to penetrate the entire part. Let the parts sit in the solution overnight.

Once the parts have soaked overnight, take them out and wash them under the tap to remove any residue from the part. You'll notice that the parts will be completely clean from rust but will have a dull finish to them. I like to take them over to a flap wheel sander and buff them to a nice satin shine.  After buffing the parts, wipe them with an oil protector called Kramer's Antique Improver. I have been using this stuff for twenty years and have never come across anything that works better or is simpler to use than Kramers. It simply brings the metal and wood back to life. After wiping all the parts with Kramers, put the majority of the plane back together.

Now that the plane is clean, you'll need to make it work. The first thing to do is grab something that is perfectly flat and place soaking wet 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper on top of it. I use an old marble window sill but the top of your table saw will probably work just fine. You will need to flatten the bottom of the plane so that it will be able to cut crisp clean shaving off. Start with 220 grit and work it over until you have uniform scratches upon the entire body. You actually don't need to have the entire bed perfectly flat. Only the front of the bed, the front and back of the mouth and the back of the bed need to be co-planer with each other. If you happen to have a hollow area between the back of the mouth and the back of the bed, it's perfectly fine. Once you have uniform scratch marks with 220 grit paper, switch to 320, then 400 and so forth until you have a nice clean bed with the 600 grit paper.

Next and most importantly, you need to sharpen the blade. I own a Tormek sharpener so I use my Tormek to grind a 25 degree bevel on my irons. After I sharpen and flatten the back of the iron with the fine grit of stone I switch over to my 4000 grit water stone and continue to sharpen the burr off. I then finalize the edge with my 8000 water stone. Sharpening to this magnification gives me an edge that stays sharper than simply using my Tormek alone.

Now it's time to see the results of your work. Take a piece a wood and start planing it. You will need to adjust the position of the frog and depth of the blade in order to achieve a clean cut. Since your using a jointer plane the tolerances of mouth opening isn't as critical as it would be for a smoother. You're not trying to achieve .002" thick shavings with a jointer. A jointer is a medium cut plane that is used to clean up joints and panels so that other planes can finish the job. A shaving of .005 to .10" should work just fine.

With about an hours worth of work, you can a have a perfectly usable plane and save hundreds of dollars as opposed to going out and buying a brand new plane off the shelf.

 **** Word to the wise: If you're a beginning woodworker and are considering spending a few hundred bucks on a 6" motorized jointer, pick up one of these hand jointers for $30.00 and learn to use it. I no longer even use my 6" motorized jointer anymore.

Then one day I ran across an article Brian Boggs did for Fine Woodworking. The shaving horse he made was simple and straight forward to make. Right then I knew I had my plans. The one problem that I saw was that he used 2" thick material to make his. I wasn't about to splurge big money on 2" thick ash or maple so I decided to make mine out of good ole southern yellow pine.

I went to Lowes and picked out two pieces of 2x10x8's that were as clean as possible without any knots. Total cost was $14.73. While Fine Woodworking showed "plans" for the horse, they weren't exactly what one would call plans. They didn't go into great detail about how to actually build the horse and a lot of detailed measurements weren't even given. So I just eyeballed where I thought edges should be and built the horse as close as possible to Brian's. 

Building the horse wasn't complicated at all and it only took me a weekend to make. I milled the body out, shaped the back legs and made an extra long front leg. The nice thing about using a 2x10 is that you can cut both back legs out of one piece that's 21"long. Once the back legs were installed, I leveled them with a compass and shaped the feet so they would sit flat on the floor. Then I took the front leg and leveled the horse, marked where the top of the leg ends and trimmed it flushed.

The only caveat of using 1 1/2" stock as opposed to full 2" stock is that the head becomes narrower. Brian's bench head is 5 1/2" wide due to the fact that he had three 2" wide boards glued together. My bench head could only be 4 1/4" wide due to three 1 1/2" pieces glued together. Fortunately I don't think that's a big concern due to the fact that mostly what I'll be shaving are spindles.

The one thing I did differently from the plan was that Brian used a bicycle tire tube to act as a spring for the key. I didn't have an old tube lying around and didn't feel like buying a new one so I ended up using a big fat rubber band instead. While it works, I'm sure the tire tube would work much better since it would have more spring to it.

I also just shaped the seat using a chair shave and spoke shave then sanded it smooth with a random orbital sander. Brian wrapped his with leather which gives his horse a real nice look. I did however glue a piece of leather onto one side of the hold down bar so that the horse would grip the stock better.

All in all I''m very happy the way the horse turned out and I can even take it apart for storage or to travel with. Now I just need to find me some fresh cut logs to make a chair.

I'll be the first to admit that I'm a cheap skate. Anytime I have the opportunity to save a little cash when buying old tools I'll jump on it. Even if that means buying a tool incomplete so long as I know I can make it work with a little bit of effort. Plus being a hobbyist woodworker with nothing but time to spare, half of the fun is trying to make an old beaten up tool work.   

A perfect example is the Stanley No 66 hand beader I bought of Ebay for $40.00. I was able to snag it fairly cheaply since it was auctioned off with no cutters. The tool collectors usually want the tool with a full set of cutters so they went on to happier hunting grounds. But for me, it was perfect. I knew that making replacement cutters would be a snap so I bid accordingly and luckily enough I won the auction.

 Once I received the tool, I went to the local hardware store and picked up a reciprocating saw blade for a $1.00. Obviously you can use an old dull saw blade but unfortunately I didn't have one lying around at the time. The blade I bought was the perfect thickness (about 1/16" thick) but needed to be 5/8" wide in order to fit into the channel of the beader. I cut the blade in half and scribed a line down the side. Then I used my grinder to grind the blade to the appropriate width. Next I shaped a profile on each side and used files to shape the metal. After that, I used 1000 and 4000 slip stones to dress the metal and remove any burrs. The end result was a cutter that worked perfectly with the tool and literally only took a few minutes to cut.

I have a few more profiles to cut before I have the entire set, but I'll probably wait for my next big plumbing job in order to recycle some worn out reciprocating saw blades.

  My first thought was "Great, now I have to buy another spokeshave." But after a couple of minutes of crying in my beer I realized "Wait a minute, I'm a woodworker, I'll just make a new body!" So I grabbed a piece of cherry I had lying around and started to mill it out.                                                                                                                             

The process of making a new body was quite simple. I simply laid out the broken spokeshave on top of the scrap wood and traced around the profile. I then took it over to the band saw and rough cut the shape. I then took it to my bench and refined curves with files and rasps so it matched the original. For the mouth opening I sawed several kerfs and popped out the middle with a chisel.

After the body had been shaped I used the original spokeshave as a template again and marked where the holes went for the blade. I drill 5/16" holes with a 7/16" counterbore 14" deep through the body. I then placed the brass wing nuts and plate on top of the holes and scribed the profile with an Exacto knife and pared away the recess with a couple of small chisels.

Once I fine tuned all the parts of the spokeshave and sharpened the blade I made a few test cuts to see how it performed. Luckily it cut just as well as it did before. After a couple of coats of Danish oil, I have a new spokeshave that should last just as long as the old one did and it didn't cost me a cent.